Microclimates and Other Weather Effects

Every individual garden will have microclimates.  These are areas of your yard where the temperature is affected by the landscape, including the grade/elevation, any prevailing winds and wind speeds, the presence/absence of standing water, etc.  


Hills are more exposed, making them generally colder than flat surfaces. Ravines or dells are more insulated, so can be warmer on average than either of the previous situations.  So if you are in a Zone 4 climate, your hilltops may be on the colder end, or nearer to Zone 3 temperatures.  Any ravines or dells may be more sheltered, and you may be able to experiment with more Zone 4A or even Zone 5 plants there.  Keep in mind experimenting with higher zone plants has the possibility of failure.


Knowing your prevailing winds and their average speeds can help you plan your garden for success.  South and West winds are generally going to be warmer than North and weathervaneship12East winds, for example.  

Faster wind speeds will have a cooling and drying effect on areas experiencing them, as the wind pulls water out of the plants through evaporation.  The point at which damage occurs can be hard to predict, since different plants can take more or less wind.  If you can notice a significant wind coming through pretty steadily, please take it into consideration when you are doing your planting.

For example, if you have a corner of your garden with a prevailing Northeast wind, and a noticeably brisk speed, you will have a significantly cooler climate there.  If you have an area with a strong Southwest wind, you may have a very hot and dry area to plant!  

You can try to soften the blows by planting in masses and using larger shrubs and woody


Diagram of Appropriate Windbreak Design (worldofagroforestry.org)

perennials as windbreaks.  By forcing the winds through other, stronger plants, you can mitigate the speed and to some extent (not 100%) the direction, as having a large planting insulates significantly and can keep more moisture to itself than an isolated single plant, surrounded by hot or cold air.


Water (Lakes, Ponds, etc)

gardenpondStanding surface water can have a significant impact on your garden’s temperature.  Any presence of standing surface water has a cooling effect in summer, since water is constantly evaporating into the atmosphere.  It also has an insulating effect, keeping temperatures more stable and moderate, and less prone to spiking with heat or cold.  These areas may take longer to warm up in spring and cool down in fall.  The effects vary with the size of the body of water, so expect small buffering from smaller ponds (and possibly still temperature spikes), and a larger ‘calming’ effect from larger ponds or small lakes.  

If you live near a large enough body of wlakeater (like a very large lake or even ocean) you may also see significantly more snow, due to what is called the ‘Lake Effect’.  Since plants see snow as a great insulator against winter temperatures, more snow is not usually a concern from the plants’ point of view – they don’t have to shovel!  

Snow weight might be concerning if you have delicate or new woody plants or trees, so be sure to watch any build-up carefully, and remove when it becomes too heavy to prevent limb breakage.

Climate Change and Global Warming



As our global climate changes, our growing zones have begun to shift as well.  The USDA is continuing to collect data and research, and updating the map as needed.  However, temperature ‘swings’ are also becoming more common, so extreme and abnormal temperatures have been recorded more frequently.  

Since the Hardiness Zone map does not take them into consideration, gardeners must always be prepared for ‘cold snaps’ and ‘heat waves’.  Again, winter mulch is recommended for any tender or newly-planted areas, and extra shade and water is appreciated by plants in extra hot summers.  Being prepared for extremes always increases survival rate – it’s very rare to be able to predict whether it’s needed or not, but it’s better to be prepared rather than sorry!  


Heucherella ‘Solar Eclipse’

If you have new plantings, remember to give them a little extra TLC, as mentioned in the previous paragraph.  Extra water, shade, mulch, and attention are all good ideas.  Baby plants need some, well, babying.  They haven’t stretched their thirsty roots out very far, and their leaves and crowns may be used to greenhouse conditions and not the ground freezing solid quite yet.  A little care goes a long way to set them up for future success!

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What is a Growing Zone? How to find yours!


USDA growing zones are determined by the average winter extreme low temperature. This means the USDA has collected data from hundreds of research stations across the country to determine what the lowest average temperature is in each spot every year.  They then build or adjust the map of Hardiness Zones to illustrate what kinds of plants will survive the winter temperatures in each area.

This doesn’t take into consideration any abnormal extreme low temperatures, so sometimes there can be lower than average temperatures to watch out for.  Luckily, natural forces aside, the USDA Hardiness Zones map is usually very accurate, and when used correctly, can be one of the most useful tools you can use to determine which plants will grow and thrive in your garden, and survive your winters and/or summers!

Finding your Zone

To see an interactive and more detailed map (including a zoom function and to search by zip code) please visit the USDA’s map website: here:http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/phzmweb/interactivemap.aspx

Here is the current USDA Plant Hardiness Zones Map, with half-steps.


To find your zone, look for your region, state, and approximate city area.  Then use the key to determine what zone the color represents.  That will be your Growing Zone.  For best results in your garden, only purchase and plants rated for your zone – plants that do not mention your particular zone may not survive the average winter/summer temperatures in your area.  

Most plants sold today will mention on their tags and/or online descriptions what growing zones they are rated for.  For example, if you are in Zone 4, and check a tag/description that says ‘Zones 4-8’, you can grow that plant! If the tag/description says ‘Zones 3-9’ you can grow that one, too!  If the tag/description does not cover your zone, it’s not a good idea to grow that plant in your garden.  We’ll talk more about that later.  

Marginal Zone Areas

If you are in between zones near a zone boundary line, for example where zones 3 and 4 meet you may want to be extra careful with your plantings.  Erring on the side of caution and purchasing/planting for the lower-numbered (in the example’s case, zone 3) or colder zone is a good idea.  

If you’d like to plant for the higher-numbered (in the example’s case, 4)  or warmer zone, proceed with caution, and experiment with the knowledge that some of your plants might not ‘make it’ through the winter cold or may ‘die back’ in the summer heat.  

You can also utilize a winter mulch/covering to increase your chances of winter survival, and extra shade/water in summer to increase your summer survival rate, but they may not make 100% of plants tolerant of the temperatures involved.

Plants Out of Your Growing Zone

If you want to try to growing a plant rated higher than your particular growing zone, you can also try winter mulch and summer shade/extra water, but remember there is a very real chance your chosen plant may just not make it, and that’s normal for a plant grown out of its zone – there is nothing wrong with that plant, it just cannot survive a place to which it can’t adapt..

We cannot recommend growing perennial plants in zones they are not rated for.  If there is a plant you enjoy rated out of your range, consider planting it as an annual, with the expectation it will die at the end of your growing season, and replant it next year to enjoy again.

Growing Perennials as Annuals

Plenty of our customers have a great time growing their favorite perennials as annuals!  Most gardeners the world over have planted annuals to brighten up their yard for just one season (or replant every year) – and most container gardens are primarily filled with annual plants!  

When you think of how you use plants like geraniums, petunias, impatiens, and marigolds (to name a few popular annuals in our area), know you can also use perennials out of your growing zone that way as well!  Why not try some interesting perennials like penstemon, euphorbia, geum, and more in your containers and beds?

Remember, your plants will only have one season of growth, so they may not get to their full mature size, or have as profuse of blooms as they would if they had more years to accumulate growth, but they can still be enjoyed in the garden for what beauty they provide!

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Can Hostas, Heucheras, and Other Perennials Be Grown Indoors?

The short answer to this question is, unfortunately, no.

The long answer is maybe, but it is very difficult – if you love a challenge, you can give it a try!

Hormonal Reasons

The main reason why it’s not a good idea to grow temperate perennials (perennials that need a seasonal temperature change, or a ‘winter’ period) indoors is that they do absolutely require a cold, winter ‘rest’ period.  This primes them for their annual cycle of spring new growth, summer filling out, fall die-back, and winter rest.  

All plants have hormones that are secreted by their cells that control their growth, how they grow, and when.  In temperate perennials, these are linked to seasonal light and temperature changes that happen naturally outdoors.  

Basically, when you give temperate perennials a fairly unvarying temperature and light levels (like in indoors environments), their internal systems don’t work quite right!  Frequently, the symptoms are a lack of vigor or excessively stretched, pale plant stems, and a slow decline to eventual plant death.

Environmental Reasons

They can also suffer from environmental stresses, due to the unnatural environment.  We’ve created an ideal indoor environment for human beings – we have vents that blow out heat in winter, keep it chilly in summer, made our buildings air-tight and dry (no wind or humidity!) and have developed low-glare, dim lighting in the spectrums that work best for the human eye.  These are, regrettably, very poor and confusing situations for temperate plants!  

Now for the challenge – you can indeed grow just about anything indoors, but you have to modify your growing space accordingly!

Requirements to Grow Temperate Perennials Indoors


The first requirement (and frequently most important for all indoor plants) is light.  Light is sunlitwindow1commonly measured in footcandles (the amount of illumination the inside surface of a one-foot-radius sphere would be receiving if there were a uniform point source of one candela in the exact center of the sphere. Alternatively, it can be defined as the illuminance on a one-square foot surface of which there is a uniformly distributed flux of one lumen.)

The average light level outdoors on a sunny day is around 1200 footcandles.  

In the shade, that drops to 350 footcandles.  

Inside a room with a window, about 200-800 footcandles (depending on how close to the window you are, the orientation of the window, direct sunlight, etc).  

Inside an interior office (no windows, overhead lighting) only 30-40 footcandles!  

A desk lamp only provides 30-80 footcandles, directly underneath!


Example of a light meter

This means that it is recommended to place your plants as close to a window with direct sunlight as possible, to acquire as much light as possible.  Supplemental light is recommended, and frequently required (especially for full-sun plants!).  

If you’d like to find out exactly how much light you have in any given area, you can buy a light meter on many hobby websites and Amazon (here’s a good example https://www.amazon.com/Professional-LX802-Hydroponics-Greenhouse-Architecture/dp/B00462LVGK)


LED grow light

Plants need special light spectrums – while humans enjoy full-spectrum or close to it, plants can only use certain sections of the spectrum (mostly red and blue) and require more of those.  Plant ‘grow lights’ are sold in many stores as well as online (here’s an example https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Miracle-Hydroponics-Greenhouse-Applicable/dp/B01HPIPM70/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471624330&sr=8-1&keywords=grow+light&refinements=p_89%3ATaoTronics) – if you’re serious about growing plants indoors, it’s best to do your research and invest in a grow light if needed for best results!

Seasonal Temperatures


A selection of hostas in pots

The other most important requirement is seasonal temperature.  If you want to grow temperate perennials (like Hosta, Heuchera, anything grown outdoors in USDA growing zones 1-12) they will absolutely need a ‘winter’ cold period.  This can be attained a number of ways (depending on the size of your plant and pot).  

For the largest plants and pots, the only options tend to be either leaving them outside (covered or insulated) or in your garage over winter (if you live in the plants’ growing zone).  You can also test how cool your basement gets, and if it does get cool enough (check the plants’ requirements, and growing zone winter temperatures), placing the pots there for a cooling period.  

hosta in round container

Hosta in small pot

If you live in an area where you have no winter cooling (or inadequate winter cooling for your choice of plant) I recommend sticking to smaller pots, or growing temperate plants indoors as annuals, and replacing them every spring.

For smaller plants and pots, you may be able to fit them in a fridge (they will have to be carefully covered and checked frequently to prevent drying out/excessive moisture).  You can always follow the same instructions for large pots, and place small pots in basements, garages, or outdoors for winter as well.

If you are prepared to cater to your temperate perennials’ needs for light and temperature, the third requirement is water and humidity.


Frequently, indoor plants require much less water than outdoor-grown plants.  Indoor plants do not transpire (water evaporation from leaves) as much as outdoor plants, since they don’t have wind or breezes to ‘pull’ the moisture away.  They also tend to grow at a slower rate, so they just don’t need as much water to drive their food production system.  This makes it easy to overwater indoor plants!  


Example of a digital soil probe

Always check the soil moisture levels before watering, and develop an idea of how often the plant truly needs to be watered – there are commercial ‘soil probes’ available to measure soil moisture by either electronic means or physically pulling a soil sample from lower in the pot. Here’s some examples of soil probes of the electronic variety (https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Meter-Moisture-Hydrometer-Gardening-Advanced/dp/B01CXZEI16/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1471624504&sr=8-15&keywords=soil+probe)

and the physical variety


Example of a physical soil probe


Symptoms of overwatering include brown leaf tips, a funky smell to the potting mix, and stem or root rot.  Fungus gnats are hard to get rid of and also love overwatered plants – small, irritating black flies buzzing around means no more water, please!



Example of a plant mister

Some plants require more moisture in the air, rather than at the roots – these would benefit from a light misting daily or frequently.  You can purchase squirter or sprayer bottles for these plants, and use as recommended for the plant family/variety. An example here (https://www.amazon.com/Coolrunner-Vintage-Decorative-Ribbed-Mister/dp/B01EHHIVYS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1471627302&sr=8-5&keywords=plant+mister).

Potting Mix/Soil


As for potting mix, all indoor plants should ALWAYS be planted in a soilless media mix, which can be found at your local garden store.  Garden or outdoor soil or dirt can frequently be problematic indoors, US-Miracle-Gro-Potting-Mix-75637300-Main-Lrgsince it can be contaminated with insect pests and diseases.  Soilless media is frequently ph-balanced and close to neutral, with good large pores to store water or air for growth, as well as allow easy root growth.  

Garden soil (your own or purchased in bags) can tend to either be clayey (can ‘bind’ nutrients, making them difficult/impossible to access), or ‘sandy’ (refuse to ‘hold on’ to any nutrients, letting them leach out of the pot entirely).  It also is prone to compaction, making smaller or no pores for water or air, and making it unnecessarily difficult for roots to grow through).  Make sure you’ve purchased ‘soilless potting mix’ rather than bags labeled ‘garden soil’ or ‘potting soil’!  Indoors is already a hard environment, let’s make it easy on the roots!


Indoor Plant Alternatives

If temperate perennials sound like too much work indoors, there are plants that are much more easily adapted to indoor environments!  The Tropicals!  Tropical plants are frequently offered in stores as ‘indoor’ plants because their ideal habitat is quite close to our indoor environment!


One of the many varieties of Draceana

Tropical plants (like Dracaena, Pothos, Ficus, and other plants native to USDA growing zone 13) require constant, fairly warm temperatures, plenty of moisture, and there are plenty of plants adapted for quite a bit of shade (understory natives)! These plants have the best chance of surviving and even thriving in an indoor environment without significant modifications.  If you want to build yourself a lush, green indoor paradise, we recommend exploring these great families!


Here’s some links to articles with lists of easy-care tropical indoor plants!







(file:///C:/Users/Hostasdirect/Downloads/Lightlevels.pdf) (University of Denver, DU Portfolio – What do light levels really mean)





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The Right Heuchera for You! How to Choose These Colorful Shade Plants for Your Garden!

Heuchera General Information

Heuchera, or Coral Bells, have hundreds of varieties available on the market. They prefer shade to part shade, with a few varieties able to tolerate full sun in cooler climates.

Heuchera flowers are typically showy, bright colors that attract pollinators like butterflies and bees to your yard, and ALL species are native to North America. They grow in USDA zones 4-8 only, so if you live outside of those areas, it’s probably best to pick a different perennial, or grow Heucheras as an annual.

Heuchera are available in a bewildering array of colors, shapes, sizes, and textures. But which one fits in with your growing zone and climate?

In this blog, I’ll take you through the most common Heuchera species (the wild origin ancestor plants) and into the newer developed hybrids and crossbreeds produced by plant breeders for better performance in the home garden, with photos and variety examples for Northern states and Southern states to guide you to the right choice for you!

Heuchera americana

Heuchera americana

This is a straight species H. americana.

Originally native to the Central United States., H. americana withstands both hot and cold temperature extremes. The plant has a neat mound habit, and seems to prefer woodland locations. It is very commonly hybridized with other species to produce many colorful varieties.



See all our H. americana lineage Heucheras at our Buy Heuchera Page – H. americana.


Heuchera cylindrica


This is a straight species H. cylindrica.

Sometimes known as Roundleaf Heuchera, the leaves can vary but are commonly a little ’rounder’, lacking the sharply defined lobes of some other Heuchera species. Native to the Northwestern United States and Canada. Of course, hybridization mixes traits, so lineage is not always immediately apparent. The flower stalks of H. cylindrica are quite rigid and can fare better in windy conditions.

See all our H. cylindrica lineage Heucheras at our Buy Heucheras Page – H. cylindrica.

Heuchera sanguinea


This is a straight species H. sanguinea.

The first heuchera commercially available and may be familiar from your grandmother’s garden, H. sanguinea frequently has the showiest blossoms of the Heuchera varieties. This species is native to the Southwest United States and can maintain its flowers even in dry, hot weather.





See all our H. sanguinea lineage Heucheras at our Buy Heucheras Page – H. sanguinea.

Heuchera villosa


This is a straight species H. villosa.

H. villosa are native to the Eastern United States. Hybrids using this species are typically recommended for the deep South, as they can survive very hot, humid conditions. They typically have large, hairy leaves.






See all our H. villosa lineage Heucheras at our Buy Heucheras Page – H. villosa.



This is a straight species H. micrantha.

Heuchera micrantha

This Heuchera species is native to the Western United States and Canada. The origin species for the ‘ruffled’ look in Heuchera leaves, they are also the most cold-tolerant Heuchera.

The ruffled shape of the leaves may have something to do with it, since it naturally insulates by trapping air pockets beneath and between the leaves themselves. H. micrantha are also very variable in size and color, with some displaying intense ruffles and others less.

See all our H. micrantha lineage Heucheras at our Buy Heucheras Page – H. micrantha.

Heuchera Hybrids

H. 'Green Spice' (americana lineage)

H. ‘Green Spice’ (americana lineage)

Nearly all Heuchera on the market today are a mixture of any and sometimes all of these species! Heuchera hybrids are designed to give you the best selection of colors, sizes, leaf shapes, and textures for your garden, while trying to maximize and/or target growing areas.

While color, leaf shape, and texture are important to your garden design, the species lineage of your Heuchera can frequently determine how well it will grow for you.

For Hot and Southern Climates

If you live in an area with predominantly hot weather (Deep South, SouthWest, etc) you may want to specifically look for Heuchera hybrids with plenty of H. villosa or H. sanguinea lineage.

Here’s a few examples of some Heuchera hybrids with villosa and sanguinea lineage.

H. ‘Autumn Leaves’ (villosa hybrid)

H. ‘Southern Comfort’ (villosa hybrid)

H. ‘Champagne’ (villosa hybrid)

H. ‘Obsidian’ (villosa hybrid)

H. ‘Plum Royale’ (sanguinea hybrid)

H. ‘Lipstick’ (sanguinea hybrid)

H. ‘Havana’ (sanguinea hybrid)

H. ‘Glitter’ (sanguinea hybrid)

For Cold and Northern Climates

If you live in an area with cold winters (especially zone 4 areas), you may want to look for hybrids with H. micrantha or H. cylindrica lineage.

Here’s a few examples of some Heuchera hybrids with cylindrica and micrantha lineage.

H. ‘Ginger Ale’ (cylindrica hybrid)

H. ‘Peppermint Spice’ (cylindrica hybrid)

H. ‘Paris’ (cylindrica hybrid)

H. ‘Rave On’ (cylindrica hybrid)

H. ‘Forever Purple’ (micrantha hybrid)

H. ‘Ginger Peach’ (micrantha hybrid)

H. ‘Blackberry Crisp’ (micrantha hybrid)

H. ‘Lime Rickey’ (micrantha hybrid)


While all Heuchera are rate at USDA growing zones 4-8, both ends of that range come with their own challenges for plants. Be sure to set yourself up for success and choose Heuchera that will work for you and with you to thrive and add beauty and color to your garden for years to come!

How to Purchase

To see ALL the 50+ varieties of Heuchera we offer, see our Heuchera Buy Page! You can filter by species lineage to shop Heuchera for your area!

We also offer their other native relative, Tiarellas, and Heucherellas too, a hybrid between them!

If you need help planting your Heuchera, or tips on caring for and maintaining your Heuchera, see our Heuchera Care and Maintenance Page.

We also have a series of Heuchera Information Pages, with fun information on Heuchera in Hanging Baskets, Heuchera in Containers, and more!

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Garden Tasks for Spring!


How to get your garden ready to start a healthy and productive year!


This season is mostly preparation; laying the groundwork so your plants get a good start and everything they need to grow large and healthy! Spring can be defined as the season (typically 3 months) after the snow melts, overnight freezes cease, and the soil warms up. Above ground, the trees and shrubs’ buds swell and bloom.

Trees & Woody Perennials (Plants that leave woody stems aboveground over winter)

First, fertilize any deciduous trees and woody shrubs like rhododendron/azaleas and roses. If you can see their bare stems, place a granular, all-purpose fertilizer (special acidic one for acid-loving plants like rhododendrons) in a circle around them (not too near the stems) and water it in thoroughly. The water will take it down into the soil profile and make it available for the roots!

2011-04-2010.16.34Fertilizer note: Most fertilizer will have a xx-xx-xx number; this is its NPK (Nitrogen, Phosporus, Potassium). All-purpose fertilizer often has ‘balanced’ numbers like 10-10-10. Some plants require more Nitrogen, so a higher number in front (like 25-10-10, etc) may be a better choice.

Blooming plants often require more Phosporus, so a higher middle number (10-15-10, etc) could be an option. Please be careful, however, to use it sparingly – Phosporus is easily mobile in water, and is a major pollutant in many ecosystems due to runoff.

climbing_roses_561824Prune roses and place peony support rings in position. Repair, replace, or position any support stakes or trellises as needed.

Remove winter mulch CAREFULLY, and only when danger of chilling temperatures is gone. If you can, remove it in steps, taking away some each day to acclimatize the plants to the temperature/light changes. If weather is up and down, remove during the day and CAREFULLY recover for cool nights to prevent damage to tender shoots. It’s better to remove too late than too early.

Herbaceous Perennials & Tender Bulbs

If you find any frost-heaved plants (plants pushed up out of the ground by freeze/thaw cycles) you can

  • Carefully tamp down with your foot and sprinkle extra soil over the crown
  • Lift/dig entirely out and replace deeper
  • Lift/dig entirely out and divide, replacing part and moving part

hosta varietiesOnce herbaceous perennial plants’ shoots are 2-4 inches tall (and not more!) you can dig and divide to share or increase your garden! ‘Herbaceous’ plants are plants whose stems are not woody and do not persist above-ground over the winter. All above-ground plant parts die back to soil level. We have a guide to digging and dividing hostas at Digging and Dividing Hostas!

If you’re not digging and dividing (or have just finished) once shoots are up you can fertilize your herbaceous perennials too! Again, a granular fertilizer applied in a circle (not too close to shoots!) and then watered in Coral Bellswell is a good head start for plants.

Trim off old, weathered foliage and spent flowers on perennials like Heuchera (Coral Bells). We have a video on how to do it at Heuchera Videos!

Plant tender bulbs like Lilies, Gladiolus, and Dahlias after last average frost date (look up average frost dates for your area online, or contact lwallpapers_tropical_flowers-dahlia_pink-1600ocal university or county horticulture extension program). Be ready to cover them if there is a late freeze!

Remove all spent flowers from Spring bulbs as they die (leaving foliage intact) and fertilize after with bone meal or bulb fertilizer.

Lawns & Vegetable Gardens

Rake lawns (especially dead, matted spots) when they come out of dormancy and start greening up (helps introduce light and air to waiting shoots) and reseed bare spots. Once seed starts germinating/getting established, fertilize.

Amend annual vegetable beds with fertilizer and manure, working it into 1-1204019023FA3pthe soil or topdressing as you prefer. Fertilize and/or topdress manure on perennial vegetables like rhubarb, berries, asparagus, etc.

Hardy vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, peas, spinach, etc can be seeded or planted outside now. Non-hardy vegetables like tomatoes can be started indoors at this time.

Check all your raised beds, fences, and trellises carefully, and repair where necessary.

Hoses & Tools

If you want to try more low-key irrigation (saves water and money!) purchase or make DIY ‘soaker hoses’ (hoses with holes along the length) to slowly water trees and shrubs. These hoses apply water at the soil level, meaning water isn’t wasted to wind or excessive evaporation; frequently it allows you to water less.

Place them around/through plantings (you can cover them with mulch to hide them and make an attractive bed!) and hook them up to a faucet you can either set on a timer or turn on/off as needed.

Check any ‘soaker hoses’ you already own for blockages. Check any trowel_pic_of_102s‘regular’ hoses for holes/leaks and repair as needed. Set any irrigation timers.

Clean and sharpen any garden tools like shovels, shears/clippers, trowels, hoes, etc.

Finally, weed any perennial beds and apply/freshen any summer mulches around trees and shrubs. Remember not to apply mulch too close to crowns/trunks! Pests can hide or tunnel through to get to them!

You can also begin to lay down slug bait/deterrents and treat lawns with Japanese Beetle larvae pesticide.








Photo sources:





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